The long way to Il Ristorante La Rua Cibovinoarte

It’s not that we are aimless; however, we often set off without a particular destination but with a general notion of the direction we will take. Today we walked out of our apartment, through the 11th Century arch – Porton del Luzon – and further around to a long colonnade where we bumped into our friend walking his old dog, Bonnie. After coffee with him, we continued on our walk in the direction of La Villa Rotonda to a little hamlet just past the villa.

We followed a stradella towards the Berici hills, then a lane alongside an ancient rock wall until we were behind the Rotonda. From here we decided to head up the hill to the Villa dei Nani  where there is a café under the huge columns in the courtyard of a 17th century family villa. By this time we were ready for another coffee.  We followed the cobblestone path further up the hill working up an appetite for lunch.

We’d seen a tiny restaurant earlier under the first colonnade just past the first café so headed back down the 190 steps of the Arco delle Scalette (Arch of the Little steps) towards home. Tucked away behind columns and arches, La Rua Cibovinoarte was an appropriate reward for our meandering two-hour walk. We peered in to see if it was either empty or too full and saw 3 people at a table at the back. The host asked if we had a booking so obviously others were coming. We sat down at handmade tables in the front of the restaurant – the back for those who had booked. It was a Sardinian restaurant without a written menu – il menu del giorno. He was from Sardinia and reeled off four types of pasta before we could ask him to speak slowly. Then three choices for the main course. I will bring you some of my uncle’s red wine! What can you say? It would be rude to decline. Or question.

Sardinia is famous for a flat crisp bread, Pane Carasau, or toasted bread and we spread it with a whipped pecorino cheese. A little bit like old-fashioned Kraft cheese spread but much tastier.

When the host asked us if we wanted still or sparkling water – he suddenly switched to English with a very strong Sardinian accent – I heard him say “The water is still sparkling” (in Sardinia). Well yes, it is! I agreed. Absolutely beautiful. And yes, we will have sparkling – if it is still sparkling!

The primi piatti were big and delicious. Ravioli stuffed with fluffy potatoes and a tomato sauce topped with mint filled my daily quota of carbs; and Rob’s spaghetti with mussels, green cauliflower which they called broccoli and thin pieces of chili was a delicate blend of flavours. We were almost full when the main courses arrived – thin lamb skewers with rosemary and oven baked potatoes for me and beer battered fish pieces on skewers with pureed peas for Rob. And uncle’s red wine.

When the host asked us if we wanted still or sparkling water – he suddenly switched to English with a very strong Sardinian accent – I heard him say “The water is still sparkling” (in Sardinia). Well yes, it is! Absolutely beautiful. And yes, we will have sparkling – if it is still sparkling!

We couldn’t eat the dessert so had coffee and a liqueur called Mirto Miro – from the Myrtle bush. We were lucky to be going home for a siesta unlike most of the customers who were obviously heading back to work.

So, while we didn’t have a particular destination in mind, we did have the intention of another perfect day in Italy. Every day is different. Every day brings a surprise. To stray from the path is not to be lost.